Ghanaian activists are demanding a central role in global textile policy discussions, particularly regarding Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) schemes. Eric Agyare, Research and Partnership Lead at The Revival Earth, stated that policies designed without local input risk harming the livelihoods of over 30,000 workers in Accra's Kantamanto market.
Agyare, speaking at the Hamburg Sustainability Conference 2026, emphasized that Ghana should not be an afterthought in global sustainability efforts. He highlighted that European-designed EPR schemes, which tax textile producers to fund waste management, must involve those directly affected. Without this involvement, such schemes could exacerbate existing challenges for traders in markets like Kantamanto.
This push for inclusion comes as Ghana continues to navigate its role in the global textile supply chain, particularly as a major recipient of second-hand clothing. The Kantamanto market, one of the world's largest, processes millions of tons of discarded textiles. Its informal economy, employing over 30,000 traders and workers, efficiently sorts, repairs, upcycles, and resells garments, embodying a circular economy model that Western nations are now trying to legislate.
Eric Agyare stressed the importance of involving local stakeholders. He told culture journalist and climate activist Kenneth Awotwe Darko, "If we sit for the global north to put together a scheme, a solution, and they want to apply it to us, it becomes a lot more difficult. We are here to be able to add our voice to it so that we wouldn't be an afterthought." This statement underscores the activists' desire for a collaborative approach rather than a top-down imposition of policies.
The implications of excluding local voices are significant. Without direct input from Ghanaian traders, EPR schemes risk becoming public relations exercises instead of effective solutions. The current system already presents challenges, with traders often buying bales of clothing sight unseen, leading to losses when they discover unsellable items. Agyare noted that while Kantamanto provides work, it does not always provide fairness, making local involvement crucial for equitable policy design.
Agyare, also the Founder and Creative Director of Artlife Matters, argued that the Global North can learn from indigenous Ghanaian sustainability practices. He cited the tradition of passing down Kente cloth through generations as an example of inherent sustainability rooted in reverence and waste reduction. This perspective challenges the notion that sustainability is a modern, Western invention, suggesting a "reverse mentorship" where the Global South offers valuable insights.
The ongoing dialogue at international conferences often remains one-directional, with Western nations prescribing solutions. Agyare rejects this premise, stating, "They need to also learn from us, learn techniques, learn habits, culture, ways that we are also winning." This approach advocates for a mutual exchange of knowledge to optimize global sustainability efforts. The economic impact on Kantamanto workers is a delicate situation, and The Revival Earth aims to bridge the gap between global agendas and local understanding.
Decision-makers and markets will need to respond to these calls for greater inclusion. Future textile policies, especially those involving financial mechanisms like EPR, must integrate the lived experiences and expertise of communities like Kantamanto. This will ensure that policies are not only effective but also equitable, supporting the livelihoods of thousands of workers and fostering genuine global collaboration in sustainability.